28Jan15Wed Richard's Wear

 This is an old suit, from stretch shining gold fabric, smooth and comfortable and tightly woven machine made obi (2 combined as is usual).   I have lost weight in recent years so the PUMPKIN effect that ruined the appearance of this suit in past years is now gone.  

 This is the back of the suit and since I have nothing to say (the obvious is obvious in the photo) I will instead pad this sentence with long meaningless English phrases to make the page look as if it is packed with insightful content.   

 This is at right a shirt made of kimono--if you blow this photo up you can see the lovely metallic sparkles from this material.  This is a boring material for a woman's kimono, but gorgeous for a man's shirt.   As is usual the shirt is zip front, I hate buttons, and has a removeable collar so I can wash the collar alone and save money.   

At left is the shot down the pants to show the rather random shapes combining the two obis.   Because the obis are tightly machine woven, they do not fray and turn me into a shaggy dog look as usual obis do after 3 or 4 wears.   

Richard Wear 22Jan15Fri

I could not wait-----THIS is my next 10 suits, due March 2015!   

It is based partially on the French waist-coat at right that Napoleon 

wore just before Waterloo.  I have combined the at right with features of a 1725  German waist-coat design, and added a stained glass obi-uchikake patch effect, indicated in the design drawing  above.   

One of my problems is I never, as raw materials, use the best obis, uchikakes, and kimonos that I have---they are too beautiful---so ALL of my shirts and suits are made with second best things.  ONE DAY, perhaps, when death draws more obviously near, I will make something with the gorgeous stuff I have piled up all over my office-room.  

Men used to look both manly, elegant, fashionable, and smart---now they look like narcissist psychopath ass-kissers, everywhere.  I watched a dozen Fortune 500 CEOs, two weeks ago, traipse into the new ANDAZ Hotel in Toranamon Hills Tokyo.   There are no words for the unspeakable ugliness of cloth and cut and shape and draping they evinced.  Tasteless lives inside tasteless monkeys!!!!!   Not to mention trying to stay awake during lunch conversations with these self promoting, self praising hormone drenched pitiful creatures.    God bless their boats, incomes, stocks, "high class prostitutes", and cocaine addiction treatment programs!!

CEOs are just like "presidents of your high school class"---now I ask YOU--what sort of person was head of YOUR high school class?  What has to happen to the heart and mind of someone who even runs for such a disgusting obsequious position?   And the dress of these people, decades later, totally makes evident the souless goop within them.  

There is no amount of money that compensates for such ugliness of fashion and soul, hired bed friends and addiction programs.   

ONE KEY to, for me, SUCCESSFUL DESIGNS (note please--"successful" for me designs nauseate little tiny business"men"), is keeping the curves-on-paper and the curves-on-cloth identical.   Sloppy tailoring does not do this but my supplier ladies are GREAT and they have their own aesthetic values that spot a great curve on paper and want to see/actualize it on cloth.  

The design above is copyrighted and registered with the US Library of Congress (to pay legal fees) so proper attribution and use is wise.   

I have a jacket series based on Lt. Warf of Star Trek the Next Generation---and elements of that have, like transposons, worped onto the design above.   So the overall design is part Star Trek and part Napoleon.   As is usual the "new" is derivative in both these directions--we imagine the new by unconscious recovery of distant pasts and vice versa.  

NOTE the French Waist-coat above has black velvet TRIM---a sign of utter taste-less-ness and cheapness of spirit---black velvet, especially the stretch variety, is an extremely black black material of great comfort and even wearable in summer if open in front.   So using it as "trim" means saving money was a more primary value than looks, comfort, or visual dominance of rooms.   YUK.     

Above you have the black and white schematic---WAIT TILL you see the full uchikake, obi, kimono complete 10 suits in March!!!!!

My next series is even bolder with an unusual elegant sort of dis-symmetry applied to two other 1800s waist-coat traditions blended!!!!!

Itr 

Richard's Wear 16jan15fri

 This is the computer-random made pattern down the pants leg of the silver suit.  Our research showed it got eyes first and held eyes longest compared to pseudo-random shapes made by human hand jiggling drawn curves.  Do not know why but some biologists speculate the brain likes noisy nature fractal environments---it needs background noise to spot patterns in not pattern in which to spot background noise--something like that.   

 This is one of my ten new kimono shirts--love it---so black so shiny so elegant so comfortable--zip front, removable collars in 3 styles. enlarged sleeves and elongated sleeves (extra cloth says wealth and power and sex to the female mind---go figure).   

 This is the silver suit itself.  Very comfortable, removable sleeves so the jacket becomes a vest in summer.   Hard to NOT get attention in any room.  Visually dominates 7000 US$ Italian suits nicely.  Made a GE VP very angry at the Tokyo Andaz hotel entrance a few months ago--his entourage of girls drifted over to me to answer the question---WHO ARE YOU?    and probably unsaid--WHAT are you?    

This is my usual orange short sleeve winter obi jacket with diagonal interleaving of 2 obis and vertical interleaving on opposite sides and a wave interleaving down the back.   IT matches colors on the silver suit so I used it today.  

Richard's Wear 5jan15mon

 Here I am in my usual green two obi inter-leaved jacket---very stiff non-wrinkling material but the threads catch and in a few weeks of wear you have to give it a haircut, or else you end up looking like a shaggy dog.  This jacket is very warm, replacing down jackets I used to wear in winter.  Down jackets are so DULL and UGLY, even the super expensive gold ones.  

 At left, there I am in a 9th generation suit.  Notice the two zippers in front one diagonal and one in the middle top, vertical.  This has removable sleeves so the jacket is a long vest in summer if I wish.   I like this design even though it was done about ten years ago.   

 Here at right is the jacket back a slight twist on the same pattern of obi patches in front.  I do not now like this back pattern but I can live with it.  

This is sofa material from Kobe I bought from a shop that was closing for less than a US dollar a yard.  The shiny gold stripes look good up close and distant and are unfortuntely very warm, ruling out summer use.  The necktie was hated by the entire Chicago Bulls basketball team of the Michael Jordan era.   I wear long sleeve black heat tech UNIQLO underwear shirt under because the back side of metallic cloths causes allergies and skin irritation in ALL people (not just me).  Without a long sleeve intermediary layer the material is unwearable.  

Richard's Wear 4Jan15Sun

 This suit if from my CLOWN period.   I was driven mostly by a desire to be anti-Calvin and anti-employee and pro "man" in the word "business"man.   Put the man back into businessman, so to speak.   

I wanted my clothes to do work for me--saving my mouth work---by telling the grey suited hordes of salary"men" that, indirectly, no one needed a 10,005th new shampoo and a 14,215th kind of cookie. 

The result is a clown-like effect that, if I now want to clown around, is perfect, but that otherwise I have no use for.  I wear this genre of suit around home, at the local hotel and shopping places, my cafes, because it is super comfortable and still makes a statement tho the wrong one.   

 Here is the front of the suit---notice how the nectie does not really match---actually it is a perfect blend of the orange of the giant clown-like obi patches and the stretch swimsuit purple-blue material underneath. 

Hard to see in the photo at left is the orange shirt, made of SOFA material from the furniture down the street from our Chicago Regent's Park condo, where we had the ONLY 4 bedroom condo while teaching at U Chicago.   

 The nice thing about having 600+ suits, all custom made, like mine, is one can always escalate--if something is not outrageous enough, bright enough, clown-like enough, I can go back to my various closets and find a combination more X, whatever the X be.  

Here at right is my usual orange winter jacket with all this orange and purple suit stuff stuffed inside it.   Notice this jacket does not make me any MORE clown-like, rather it makes me LESS clown-like.  If you do something outrageous even more outrageously, sometimes it cancels itself!!!

This shirt is made of soft thick (warm) sofa material and has a sheen to it that I love.  The trouble with the color orange is, well, it is too orange.   You cannot say that about any purple--it is not possible for a purple to be too purple, but it is a quality of all oranges that they also are always too orange.  I do not know why.

In this clown-like era of my designing, I heightened contrast of color in every combination.  The result was, like this suit, generally ugly.   I did not get disabused from this pathway till two or three years after I started down it---I do not know why, for a while I LIKED outrageous.   

TRUE walk into a Chamber of Commerce meeting filled with grey suited hordes talking indirectly about how great they are, and this suit makes the RIGHT statement---it says---screw you, grey suited empoyee!!1